Method of knitting



AP 1945- o, FREGEOLLE I 2,374,532 METHOD OF KNITTING Filed Feb. 8. 1944 6. Sheets-Sheet FIQZ].

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April 24, 1945; 'o. |=;GE LE' 2,374,532

METHOD OF. KNITTING Filed Feb. 8, 1944 6 Sheets-Sheet. a

1V VENT 01E METHOD OF KNITTING Filed Feb. 8, .1944 Y 6-$heets-Sheat 4 April 24, 1945. Q FREGEOLLE 2,374,532

- METHOD OF KNITTING Filed Feb. 8, 1944 s Shoots-Sheet 5 j .1 r J I Mayna- April 24, 1945. o. FREGEOLLE mn'mob OF KNITTING 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed Fab. 8. 1944 Patented Apr. 24, 1945 METHOD OF KNITTING Oscar Fregeolle, Central Falls, R. I., assignor to Hemphill Company, Central Falls, R. I., a corporation of Massachusetts Application February 8, 1944, Serial No. 521,488.

9 Claims.

- particularly in the knitting of hosiery, in securing a uniform and symmetrical loop structure. It

' freqeuntly happens that many of the loops are tilted from the perpendicular and that one side of a loop is diiferent from the other. Although these peculiarities are minute, they nevertheless impair the over-all appearance of the fabric, particularly of the finer gauges in which substantially perfect loop structure is essential.

The defects mentioned are particularly noticeable in splitv fabric produced by reciprocatory knittingbecause the tilt of the loops tends to follow the direction of knitting so that the loops of one course tilt in one direction whereas, in the next course, the loops tilt in the other thus magnifying the defect and producing the socalled washboardf effect.

When a decorative stripe or other pattern is incorporated in a fabric, by the method known as wrapping, for example the'same lack of uniformity and symmetry of loop structure is encountered particularly at the edges. Since such patterns are usually of a different color or colors than the adjacentfabric .such defects are very conspicuous. ,Further'more, because true wrapping has heretofore been done only in ro'tary knitting or in one direction, i. e., in alternate coures, during reciprocatory knitting, so that a float of the wrap yarn extends from the end of the wrap in one course to the beginning of the I wrap of the next course, there is an unavoidable variation in yarn tension which results in a tight 'loop at oneedge of the wrap and a relatively loose loop at the other so that the outline of one .edge is sharper than that of the other.

In reciprccatory knitting, this same difficulty has existed and also no way has been known to insert a wra in every course. been limited to every other course, those courses being the ones in which the needles are moving in the same direction as during rotary knitting.

By this invention not only is the body fabric greatly improved both in rotary and recipro- Wrapping has catory knitting but also the wrap so that the design has a clearer color, a sharper outline and a much more attractive appearance. This results not only from the new method of knitting but also from the fact that in reciprocatory knitting the' structure of the wrap is new and improved.

The long floats from the finish of the wrap in one course to ,the beginning of the wrap in the next course are eliminated and the two edges of the wrapped area are of the same construction. The .loops are formed under substantially the same tension so that the appearance of the two edges is the same instead of noticeably different. In addition, the leg and instep are knitted on the auxiliary side of the machine, in accordance with the present and best practice, since no yarn change is then required. These parts are wrapped by yarn also fed at the auxiliary side of the machine instead of at the main side as heretofore and, most important, successive courses of the reciprocatorily knit instep may be wrapped instead of alternate courses only which has been -the limit of possibility in the past. Furthermore,

the area which can be wrapped includes the entire instep regardless of its width in relation to the sole instead of of being limited as heretofore to a few wales adjacent the edges of the sole.

The mechanism selected for the purpose of ex-- plaining the invention is that of the Banner type of circular, independent needle, knitting machine which is too well-known to require detailed description herein. A few of its parts are shown in relative positions of the two wrap yarn horns when the needles are moving in the direction assumed in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 when the needles are moving in clockwise direction;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2 illustrating the relative positions of the two wrap yarn horns under the conditions of Fig, 3;

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view illustrating a needle and sinker before the wrap yarn is taken by the needle;

Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic view illustrating a sinker and a needle and other associated parts as the needle is about to take a wrap yarn;

Fig. 7 is alsimilar view when the needle is about to take the main or body yam; 1

Fig. 8 illustratesthe manner in which the tw yarns are drawn over the back of the sinker;

Fig. 9 illustrates a further step when the needle has risen so that-the two yarns are over its latch; Fig. 10 illustrates the feeding of the wrap yarn to a needle in the followingcourse which is knit in the reverse direction, the previously fed and knit wrap and body yams being shown in the throat of the. sinker;

Figs. 11 and 12-are views of the needle and two adjacent sinkers. illustrating the manner in which the body and wrap yarns of the course relating to Figs. 1 to are transferred from the backs to the ing directly against the yarns of that course and also the yarns of the succeeding course over the backs of the sinkers;

Fig, 15 is a diagrammatic illustration of a split sinker head friction ring (not shown),,which is also capable of swinging through. a certain arc, by means of a connection l5 attached to the sinker head friction ring (not shown) and engaging fork IS on arcuate ring l3. A pin l1 which may be the pivot of a roller l0 projects into a camway l8 in a stationary arcuate plate l9 (Figs. 1, 3 and 21). There are two opposite camways l8, one for each horn, so that when ring I3 is rotated in one direction. horn 8 will be lowered and horn 9 raised and vice versa by the movement of pins I! along camways la. There is also the usual foot stocking having a wrap pattern in the leg andinstep; I

Fig. 16 is an accurate reproduction of an en- 7 larged projection of actual fabric having a five needle wrap knitted in a rotary manner as, for

example, in the leg of a stocking, by the method of this invention;

Fig. 17 isa similar reproduction of. fabric including a five needle wrap in every course produced by reciprocatory knitting; V

Fig. 18 i a similar reproduction of fabric including a one needle wrap in every course also produced by reciprocatory knitting;

Fig. 19 is a developed view showing the paths followed by the jacks and needles in rotary or counter-clockwise reciprocatory knitting;

Fig. 20 is a similar view illustrating the paths followed by the jacks and needles during clockwise reciprocatory knitting; and v Fig. 21 i a view of the cam plate which controls the operating of the wrapping means.

.As shown in Figs. 1 and 3 the machine is provided with the usual rotatable needle cylinder indicated by thebroken lines I, complement of needles 2, and carrier ring I equipped on the main side of the machine with the usual yarn levers 4. On the auxiliary side is another yam lever 5, mounted on the underside of carrier ring 3 in such a way that it can be moved outwardly radially-when the feeding of the body yarn 6 I is momentarily discontinued as when knitting the heel and toe, and can be swung on a pivot to'move yarn 6 completely away from the knitting field whenever the feeding of the yarn is discontinued for longer periods. The mechanisms for imparting these movements to auxiliary yarn lever [are not shown since they form no part of this invention.

The machine is 'alsoi'provided with a wrap spindle 1, preferably provided with a plurality of feeds, and twowrap yarn horns Q and 9 for 1 suitable guide ring u of carrier ring a. The

swinging of arcuate ring II is controlled from the binder plate 20. P

The leg and instep of the stocking "are knit on the auxiliary side of the machine as is now customary so that the same yarn can be used throughout and uniformity of yarn and stitch in these parts assured. Theleg is knit ina rotary manner and the instep and foot by reciprocatory knitting.

When knitting the leg by rotary knitting yarn 6 is fed to the needles by means of lever 5 on the auxiliary side and is knit on that side, all of the needles traversing the path 2| (Fig. 19) and knitting at cam 22.

If this part of the stocking is to be provided with a. wrap pattern the wrap yam 23 is fed over horn 8 which is in its low position (Fig. 2) to the needle or needles which are to be wrapped by wrapping spindle 1 one finger of which has been swung out by suitable mechanism so that its eyelet 24 lies outside the needle circle as shown in Fig. 1. Wrap spindle I rotates one to one with needle cylinder 1 as usual.

The needles to be wrapped have been selected and elevated to a position 25 (Fig. 19) higher than the usual yarn receiving position, by a suitable selector means 26 and master cam 21 operating upon jacks, such as 28, to receive the wrap yarn 23. When the wrap yam has been fed to the tending to the last needle wrapped, also continues to swing around under binder plat 20 as indicated at 34 and so on until the cycle is comguiding the wrap yarn as will be explained later.

pleted.

Although horn 8 has been in its low position shown in Fig. 2, as above stated, this position, as a matter of fact, maybe considerably higher than usual so that wrap yarn 23 is held high up on the needles and moves into the hooks earlier than usual and, consequently, is positively positionedl above the body yarn on the needles. Just as a wrap yarn 23 drops oil the end of horn 8 body yarn 6' is fed to the needles by yarn lever 5 which, since it is mounted onthe underside of the carrier ring feeds the body yarn to the needles below wrap yarn 23 and at a much lower angle than the wrap yarn was fed by wrap spindle I and born 8. The feeding of the wrap yarn high on the needles and above the body yarn leaves plenty of room for feeding the body yarn well above the latch pivots so that there is no danger that the yarn will be cut or frayed by the closing of the latches.

The feeding of the bo y and wrap yarns to the needles is also illustrated by Flss. 5 to 9. In

31 of the sinkers.

Fig. is shown a needle 2 and sinker 28 before feeding of any yarn. In Fig. 6 needle 2 is in the elevated position 25 (Fig.- 19) to receive wrap yarn 23 as fed by wrap spindle eyelet 24 over horn 8. In Fig. 7the needle 2 has descended to a lower position. for the reception of the body yarn 8 as fed by yarn lever 5 prior to knitting.

.It will be noted that now wrap yarn 23 is in the hook of the needle and passes over a smaller portion of horn 8 and that body yarn 6 is fed to the needle considerably below the wrap yarn. In Fig. 8 the needle has descended still further and has drawn the two yarns over the sinker. However, instead of drawing these yarns in the throats 3B of the sinkers in the usual way the sinkers have been moved inward sooner and further so that the yarn is drawn over the backs In Fig. 9 the needle has risen again so that the yarn loops are now on the latch. Thereafter. the usual cycle is completed until the needle has again assumed the position pie, when knitting in counter-clockwise direction selector 26 (Fig. 19). and master cam 21 maybe utilized to elevate jacks and, through them, the

at cam 44 or 43 as the case may be at the main side of the. machine following present split foot practice.

As previouslystated the sinkers are so manipulated that at the auxiliary side of the machine the yarns are drawn over their backs inshown in Fig. 5 the sinkers meanwhile bein drawn out so that their sinker loops have been transferred from the backs to the throats of the sinkers over the nibs 38.

For the next course the wrap and body yarns 23 and 6 respectively'are again fed to the needles and knit in the manner just described.

When the change is made from rotary to reciprocatory knitting as, for example, atithe beginning of the high-heel, the wrap and body yarns continue to be fed and knit as above described by the instep needles when the needles.

are moving in counter-clockwise direction. When knitting in the other or clockwise direction the method is similar but in this instance horn 8- has been raised and horn 9 lowered and shifted as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 by means of the mechanism already described and wrap yarn 23 is fed over horn 9 instead of horn 8 and on the other side ofneedles 2 as shown in Figs. 3 and 10. Then sinkers 35 are drawn out so that the' previously formed loops are transferred from the backs to the throats of the sinkers over the nibs as shown in Figs. 11 and 12. Then instep yarn 6 is fed to the needles by yarn lever 5 as shown in Fig. 13 after which the yarns are drawn over the backs of the sinkers which have been again moved inwardly far enough to make this'possible and the knitting cycle completed.

when the machine reverses again to knit the next course in counter-clockwise direction horn 9 is again raised and horn 8 lowered and swun into'operative position and the feeding and kni ting of the wrapand bodyyam proceeded with asoriginally described. .Yarn lever B and wrap spindle l are so positioned on the auxiliary side that both the wrap and instep yarns are fed to the long butt needles including, of course, any

short butt needles which have been added to the long butt group, at the same relative points regardless of the direction in which the needles are moving as shown in Figs. land 3. h I

By feeding intliis way and by using the two horns 8 and 9 working in alternation it becomes possiblefor the first time to feed and knit wrap yarns in every course of the instep during re-' 1 ciprocatoryknitting and thus to provide in the instep section a continuous pattern similar to that usually included in the leg.

Of course'to do this, means must be provided for selecting the needles to be wrapped in each direction of reciprocation. This is done by means of jacks operating upon the needles under the" control of appropriate selectors. vFor'examstead of their throats and subsequently the loops so drawn are transferred from the backsto the throats over the nibs. This is illustrated by Figs. 11 and 12 These loops are finally cast on from the needles after the corresponding loops of the next course have been drawn. This is accomplished by projecting the sinkers inwardly so' that their throats engage with these previously formed sinker loops as shown in Fig. 14. In this figure these sinker loops are indicated by the numerals 23 and 6 by which, the wrap and body yarns have been identified throughout this description and the newlyformed loops of these same yarns are indicated by the numerals '23 and 5' respectively. As will be seen the newly drawn yarns 23' and 6' resting on the backs of the sinkers are not affected in any way by the engagement of the previously formed loops 23 and 6 with the throats of the sinkers.

The drawing of theloops over the backs of the sinkers and their subsequent transference to the 40 throats over the nibs and the casting ofi from the needles of these loops without engaging the newly formed loops have a surprisingly beneficial effect upon the shape and uniformity of size of the loops apparently for the following reasons. When the needle loops pass from around the latches of the needles to the shanks theyhang somewhat loosely upon the shanks because this part of the needle is smaller. However, when the sinkers are retracted so that the loops are caused to pass from the backs to the throats over the nibs each sinker loop receives a slight tug which tightens the adjacent needle loops around the shanks of the needles. In this way they are brought to substantially the same size. When the needles descend to cast off these loops the loops must, of course, pass vagain over the latches. In so doing theyare slightly stretched but beca'usethey have already been equalized this stretching is substantially the same for each loop. This tightening and stretching of the needle loops in this equalizing way has a similar eflfect upon the adjacent sinker loops so that both the needle and sinker loops are straightened and equalized in size to a degree which is very evident in the finished fabric. Furthermore, the fact that the sinkers when moving in to cast off loops from the needles enga'geonly with the compara tively stable loops of the previous course which are to be cast offand not at all with the unstable newly formed loops, leaves the newly formed loops undisturbed. This is far from the case when casting off involves the engagement of the sinkers with the newly formed loops also as is ineyitable when the loops are drawn in the throats I of the sinkers in accordance with previous practice.

These beneficial results are also shared by the loops of the wrap pattern. In the case of a single needle wrap the wrap yarn does not make contact with the sinkers during casting off. However, the character of the wrap benefits greatly from the fact that the underlying body loops are Straight and uniform and unaffected by the casting off process so that wrap yarn loops are more exactly positioned upon the body yarnloops. Where the wrap extends across more than one needle the wrap yampass through the same process as the body yarn, as clearly illus trated by Figs. 11, 12 and 14, and consequently, benefits directly-and to the same extent.

Figs. 16, 1'7 and 18 are tracings from actual projections of hosiery fabric knitted in accordance with this invention. Fig. 16 illustrates circularly kn: fabric with a five needle wrap. Fig.

1'1 illustrates reciprocatorily knit instep fabric with a flve needle wrap in every course. Fig. 18

also representsreciprocatorily knit instep fabric with a one needle wrap. It will be seen that the body yarn loops not only of the circularly knit fabric 45 but also of the reciprocatorily knit fabric 46 are substantially symmetrical in shape and of the same size and also are in alignment so that the wales are straight and well defined. In the reciprocatorily knit fabric of Figs. 1'7 and 18 the ing the wrap, with the exception of the improvements in the shape, size and alignment of the loops mentioned above, has the same general characteristicsas formerly. The same float extends from the end of the wrap in one course to the beginning of the wrap'in the next as shown at -41 in Fig. 16. However, there is an improvement in the fabric with respect to this float. Heretofore the tension unavoidably imposed on the wrap yarn between the end of the wrap in one course and the beginning of the wrap in the next course has tended to pull the wrap wales together so that a slight outward bulging of the wrap area is caused, the edge loops drawn inwardly and floats of the wrap are eliminated and the loops at each edge of the wrap area are substantally the same in construction and appearance.

This is" particularly important in a single needle wrap such as shown in Fig. 18 since any defect in a narrow pattern such as this is very noticeable. As will be seen in Fig. 18 the wrap yarn extends, first on one side and then on the other; from the last loop 50 of one course directly to the corresponding loop 5| of the succeeding course forming a tight substantially symmetrical wale of decidedly improved appearance. a The edge the alignment of the wrap wales and the shape of the loops in those wales impaired. The manher in which the loops are drawn and subsequently manipulated by the method of this in vention produces a flat wrap in which the shape and arrangement of the loops, including the edge loops, are normal. I

In the reciprocatorily knit parts of the stocking, such as the instep, the longfioats such as 41 in Fig. 16 heretofore characteristic of wrapped areas are entirely eliminated. Since the wrap is made insuccessive courses the wrap in one course begins at the same end that the wrap in the preceding course ended. Therefore, the wrap yarn instead of being carried all the way across the wrapped area is simplycarried from thefinal loop in one course, 48 in Fig. 1'7, for example,

construction of wider wrap patterns such as that shown in Fig. 1'7 is the same, the only difference being that other wrap loop intervene between the edge loops. Therefore, these wider patterns also have a straighter, better looking, outline.

It is hardly necessary to say that wrapping in successive courses during reciprocatory knitting. which is made possible for the first time by this invention, greatly improves the appearance and extends the possibilities of wrapping in areas knit in this way and is a distinct advance in the knitting art. It is almost as important that these improvements are brought about by easily made changes in the usual knitting methods and knitting machines.

Although this description has been predicatedv upon the assumption that the loops are drawn over the backs of the sinkers this is not essential insofar as wrapping in consecutive courses of reciprocatorily knit fabric is concerned. If one is willing to accept the less perfect fabric produced by drawing the loops in the throats of the sinkers in the usual manner the entire fabric can be made and wrapped in this way. The sinkers instead of being moved in earlier and further so as to take the yarns over their backs would be moved in at the normaL time and to the normal distance-to receive the yarns in their throats.

This would involve a change in the sinker cams which would be recognized and could be carried out by anyone skilled in the art, otherwise the knittingof the fabric performed in the same way as described herein. 7

In this description it has been assumed that the heel, sole and toe portions which are, of course, knit on the main side of the machine have been knit in the usual manner the yarn being drawn in the throats of the sinkers as usual. If, desired,-these portions of the stocking might also be knit by the method of this invention the yarn being drawn over the backs of the sinkers but,

since these parts are comparatively inconspicuous, they are usually knit in the conventional way so as to avoid unnecessary complication and alterations of the machine.

If color within coloreifects are desired in the wrap d areas they may be included by following in general the well-known procedure for proof the wrap spindle.

directly up to the beginning loop or the wrap of thenext course, say 49 in Fig. 1'72 Therefore, the problems of tension etc, caused by the long As is well known, a fashioned or shaped stocking blank or other fabric can be knit in a reciprocatory manner on a circular knitting inachine by varying the number of needles knitting.

By this inventiqn any part or it may be provided with wrap patterns in consecutive courses which would be'free of floats or any substantial length as explained above in connection with the reciprocatory knitting of the foot. i

I claim:

l. A method' of knitting upon a circular, independent needle, knitting machine which includes the steps of drawing a wrap yarn and a body yarn over the backs of sinkers and through the needle loops of a previous course casting. oil the previ-,

ously formed needle loops by engaging the sinkers with the intervening sinkerloops only and causing the sinker loops to pass from the backs to the throats of the sinkers over the tops of the nibs said steps occurring in each direction ofreciprocatory knitting. v

2. A method of knitting upon a circular indedepndent needle, knitting machine which includes the steps of drawing awrap yarn and a body yarn over the backs of the sinkers and through the needle loops of a previously knit coursecasting oil the previously formed needle loops by engaging the sinkers with the intervening sinker loops casting oil the previously'jormed needle loops by engaging the sinkers with the intervenin sinker loops only andcausing the sinker loops to pass from the backs to the throats of the sinkers over the tops of the nibs said steps occurring in each direction of reciprocatory knitting.

4. A method of knitting upon a circular, independent needle knitting machine which includes the steps of drawing a wrap yarn and a body yarn over the backs of the sinkers and through the needle loops of a previously knit course cast ing oil the previously formed eedle loops by engaging the sinkers with the intervening sinker loops only tightening the newly formed-needle loops around the shanks of the needles below the latches by stretching the newly formed sinker loops by causing them to pass from the backs to the throats or the sinkers over. the tops oi the nibs said steps occurring during reciprocatory knitting in each direction.

5. A-method of knitting upon a circular, inde I pendent needle knitting machine which includes the steps of wrapping a yarn around a single needle drawing a body yarn over the backs of sinkers and knitting both yarns simultaneously in each direction of reciprocatory knitting.

6. A method of knitting upon a circular, independent needle, knitting machine which includes the steps of wrapping a yarn around a single needle drawing a body yarn over the backs of sinkers and knitting both yarns simultaneously in each direction of reciprocatory knitting of the the steps of wrapping a yarn around a single needle, drawing a body yarn over the backs of instep.

7. A method of knitting upon a circular, independent needle, knitting machine which includes sinkers and knitting both yarns simultaneously through the needle loops or the previous course; casting off the previously formed needle loops by engaging sinkers with the intervening sinker loops only and causing the sinker loops to pass from the'backsto the throats of the sinkers over i the topsof the nibs said steps occurring in each direction of reciprocatory knitting.

8. A method of knitting upon a circular, independent needle, knitting machine which includes the steps of wrapping a yarn am (1 a single needle, drawing a body yarn over the backs of sinkers and knitting body yarns simultaneously through the needle loops of the previous course, casting off the previously formed needle loops by engaging sinkers with the intervening sinker loops. only and causing the sinker loops to pass from the backs to the throats of the sinkers over the tops of the nibs said steps occurring in each direction of reciprocatory knitting of theinstep.

\9. A method of knitting split toot work upon a circular, independent needle, knitting machine which. includes the steps or wra ing a yarn around a single needle drawing a body yarn over the. backs "of sinkers and knitting both yarns simultaneously in each direction of reciprocatory knitting.

. OSCARTREGEOLLE. 

